Week 35/52 - Part 2 - Purnululu - catching the light in the chasms

Hi fellow travellers - as promised here is Part 2 of week 35 of our 52 week tour around Western Australia. We are continuing our tour through the magnificent rock domes of World Heritage Listed Purnululu National Park in the Kimberley in the North West of Western Australia.

On the northern side of the park, 20 kilometres from the Visitor Centre are three walks which can easily be explored in a day: Echidna Chasm, Mini Palms Gorge and Osmond Lookout.

The most popular is the Echidna Chasm walk. The initial section is along a dry creek bed in full sun but as the walls of the chasm narrow the walk is in part shade, terminating within a spectacular tall narrow chasm which changes colour with the angle of the sun.
The best time for photographs is in the middle of the day when the sun comes down through the narrow chasm.

Coming into the chasm.....

From Western Australia

Near the end of the chasm.....

From Western Australia

Coming back out....that's my husband carrying my tripod....

From Western Australia

To those who think the Kimberly is a barren place, it is a surprise to see Livistona Palms growing within the Gorge, their green fronds in sharp contrast to the brilliant orange red rock and appearing out of place in this harsh environment. The palms and other plants cling to rock crevices or trail their exposed roots amongst the conglomerate rock that forms the range in this part of the Park.

Yes the rock really is that colour....

From Western Australia

Another from within Echidna Chasm...

From Western Australia

This is a Bower birds nest. They collect bits of shiny rocks, glass etc and put them within and in front of the bower the have built to attract a female.

From Western Australia

Another glorious sunset lighting up the rocks.

From Western Australia

And some wildflowers - this is one of the Grevillias - the little curved over parts have yet to open up in this example....

From Wildflowers

Week 35/52 - world heritage at Purnululu

Welcome to Week 35 of my 52 week tour around my beautiful and diverse state, Western Australia.

This week we move continue eastward from our last destination, Fitzroy Crossing in the Kimberley in Western Australia's far north, and enter the magnificent domes of Purnululu National Park. Given World Heritage listing in 2003, Purnululu is one of Western Australia’s newest and most spectacular National Parks.

In the Kija Aboriginal language "purnululu" means sandstone. The Aboriginal people inhabited the region for thousands of years, however Purnululu (formerly known as the Bungle Bungles) was known only to a few Europeans until the mid 1980s. How it received the name Bungle Bungles remains an intriguing mystery with several explanations including the corruption of the Aboriginal name Purnululu, or derived from the name of a common Kimberley grass, bundle bundle grass, or the ranges proximity to the old Bungle Bungle cattle station.

Only a small percentage of the park is accessible on foot. One of the most spectacular walks in the Park, is the walk through the domes to Cathedral Gorge - my favourite of all the gorges.

I recommend coming here early in the morning to fully experience the atmosphere of the gorge before the crowds arrive. An early morning walk is also great for photography as you can capture the light filtering through the gorges and lighting up the rocks, as you can see in this photo.

From Western Australia

The walk terminates within an almost 360 degrees towering amphitheatre that soars above you, sheltering a central pool. Cathedral Gorge is well named. Entering its immense towering cavern is like entering a magnificent natural cathedral, a place steeped in time and history. The red and orange sandstone walls tower above you, and the white sand crunches softly underfoot. Tiny tracks from night time animals can be seen going across the sand to the central pool which sits still and undisturbed like a mirror. It is a place for hushed voices and to sit quietly with your own thoughts. If you come early in the morning, as we did, you can enjoy the peace undisturbed. It has the atmosphere of a holy place, a sanctuary.

From Western Australia

Another photo within Cathedral Gorge.

From Western Australia

This is the junction of the Cathedral Gorge and the Piccaninny Creek walk. Annually 44,000 people visit Purnululu’s beehive-like domes which have become well known around the world, but seeing photos does not truly capture their grandeur or come close to the reality of standing amongst these awesome sandstone structures. The ranges are the remains of a large sedimentary rock mass laid down about 360 million years ago, uplifted to form ranges, then moulded by erosion and weathering and encased in a skin of silica and algae and a patina of iron and manganese oxidation which gives the domes the rusty orange and dark grey bandings you see today. Contrary to its solid appearance the sandstone is very fragile. The weight of overlying rock holds the sand grains in place, but when this is removed the sandstone easily erodes demonstrated by the rounded tops of the Domes.

From Western Australia

This is walking into Cathedral Gorge. I've had to lighten the photo a bit so you can see the details as the rock walls were all in shadow.

From Western Australia

Here we are driving through the park.

From Western Australia

This is our camp for the next few days. It was hot while we were in Purnululu, so we walked early in the morning, back to camp by early afternoon, laze around under the trees at camp reading a book, sort through photos, or like my son doing crosswords. Peaceful. It is beautiful to wake up to the bird song in the morning.
There are two camping areas - this one is Kurrajong. There is also a commercial upmarket tented camp for tour groups.

From Western Australia

And of course there is always sunset drinks.....At the end of the day visitors congregate with their chairs and drinks at the Kungkalahayi Lookout, three kilometres from the Visitor Centre, to enjoy the 360 panoramic views and to watch the last rays of sun spread over the Spinifex covered ridges to light up the rocks changing them to brilliant orange and reds. There are also other parking bays along the roads through Purnululu where you can enjoy the sunsets. It is a lovely way to end the day.

From Western Australia

From Cathedral Gorge you can access Piccaninny Creek. Allow 1-2 hours for the three kilometre return walk which takes you along the exposed bed of Piccaninny Creek to the lookout for views over Piccaninny Creek and the plains beyond.

Here is the start of the Piccaninny Creek walk - the white smooth rocks are the solidified base of the creek - it looks like water was solidified as it was flowing. amazing!

From Western Australia

More adventurous, fit and well equipped walkers can experience the spectacular overnight Piccaninny Gorge walk, over 30 kilometres. The Gorge which has no marked track and no defined end point, takes you along the exposed rocky bed of Piccaninny Creek for seven kilometres before it enters the Gorge itself at the Elbow. The deeper you go the more spectacular it becomes. The walk within in the Gorge becomes moderately difficult negotiating around fallen boulders and loose rocks. Walkers can explore a complex series of side gullies and gorges containing waterholes and lush vegetation.

The walk to the entrance of the Gorge and return will take a full day. Those wishing to explore the Gorge system beyond must camp overnight. It would be an unforgettable experience. We would have liked to have attempted it - but we weren't properly equipped or prepared. Perhaps next time....

Here is part of the walk near the start ....

From Western Australia

Add of course some wildflowers - this is the Kimberely Heath - I photographed it near the junction of the Cathedral Gorge and Piccaninny Creek walks.

From Wildflowers

I rather like this photo of spinifex in late afternoon light...

From Western Australia

The colours are amazing in the outback, and the skys so big, and yes billions of starts at night. Pure bliss. I just love it out in our "out-back" - I always wish I could stay instead of coming home to everyday life. It is always difficult when we return home again.

I hope you have enjoyed these additional photos. This week I will be bringing you Part 2 - as we explore Echidna Chasm and Mini Palms Gorge. I hope you will join me.

Week 34/52 - into the wilds of the Kimberley

Welcome everyone to week 34 of our 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia.

Tonight we leave Broome and its laid back lifestyle on the beach, and head east along the Great Northern Highway to the Kimberley - a land of the boab tree, amazing gorges and mountain ranges, diamonds and crocodiles.

Here we 180 kilometres from Broome - and what feels like the entrance to the Kimberley - with this majestic boab tree..

From Western Australia

Tonight we will camp at Camballin - on the banks of the Fitzroy River. It is a lovely free camping destination, off the main road, for those who know about it. My husband Rod, and son Mark go fishing while I take photos....

From Western Australia

And look out for crocodiles - not the best photo, it didn't let me get too close, this is a freshwater crocodile - the first we have ever seen in the wild - they say they don't attack people but would you test it out? Up here it is the salt water crocodiles you need to watch out for. Well...I'm pretty sure this is a freshie......

From Western Australia

Camballin is strictly bush camping, and we wanted to go for a swim to wash off the days grime, however after seeing a few crocodiles we just took a quick dip right at the edge of the river crossing where the water was running over.   But we did hear something walking around our tent that night.....a dingo or wild dog me thinks....we didn't get up to look.....

From Western Australia

After our overnight stop we left Camballin and arrive at the town of Fitzroy Crossing located on the banks of the Fitzroy River. This is where people stop while they visit Geikie Gorge National Park 21 kms north east.

Geikie Gorge is located where the Fitzroy River has cut a gorge through the limestone formations of the Geikie and Oscar Ranges, which are part of a fossilised 'Devonian' tropical reef. The average annual rainfall over the catchment area varies from 300mm to 700mm, giving the Fitzroy River a discharge rate of 29,000 cubic metres per second! During the Wet season the river rises in the gorge by approx 16.5 metres! You can see the high water line on the faces of the Gorge walls. The lower part is cleaned white by the action of flood water. The traditional landowners, the aboriginals, call this area Darngku.

We'll take a boat cruise so you can take a closer look....these walls here are about 30 metres in height.

From Western Australia

From Western Australia

Our tour around Fitzroy wouldn't be complete without some wildflowers - this is the Kimberley Silver Leaf Grevillia....

From Wildflowers

And a view at Ngumban just east of Fitzroy

From Western Australia

Week 33/52 - Slow down to Broome time on the beach

Hello everyone and welcome to Week 33 of my 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia.

After travelling all across the bottom two thirds of Western Australia for the last 32 weeks I am sure you are ready for some downtime, so our next destination, Broome is the perfect place - they don't call it "Broome time" for nothing. Time to sit back, unwind and relax on the beach under an beach umbrella before we start our tour of the Kimberley.

Broome is a long way from our last destination Nullagine - so we have to camp along the way at the De Grey River just north of Port Hedland - here is a photo of the bridge over the De Grey at sunset.

From Western Australia

And so to Broome. Often called the southern gateway to the magnificent wilderness region of the Kimberley, Broome and its famous 22 kilometre long beach, Cable Beach, is a magnet for both Australian and international visitors wanting to catch the winter sun and balmy nights.

Founded in the late 1880's as a pearling port, Broome has a multicultural population - Aboriginal, Koepanger, Malay, Japanese, Chinese and European cultures mingle here giving Broom a vibrant personality and soul all of its own.

But first the beach - A must do is to sit on the beach at sunset with a few friends and a few drinks......It is a great way to slip into "Broome time"...........

The lines you can see on the beach are from the tides - The tides here rise and fall around 10-11 metres every day. It is amazing to see. You can drive your vehicle onto the beach. You can also take a ride on a camel along the beach.

From Western Australia

Like they say - life is a beach - and this is Cable Beach......22 kilometres of stunning white sand......

From Life Images by Jill

Pearls have shaped the history of Broom since European settlement in the mid 1800's. These are opened pearl shells. There are many pearl shops in Broome where you can buy beautiful pearl jewellery, and also many artists and photographers galleries.

From Western Australia

Indigenous people lived in Broome for at least 27 thousand years prior to the arrival of Europeans. When pearl shell was first discovered by European settlers in 1800's, Mother of Pearl shell was in great demand in Europe and America for making buttons, inlays, etc. Diving initially was carried out by local indigenous people who free-dived. Occasionally natural pearls were found in the shells, and as the news spread divers were brought in from Japan, and deck hands and labourers from Malaysia. Phillipines and Koepang. Broome grew. The owners of the pearl fleets were Europeans and the shopkeepers were mostly Chinese.

In this photo you can see an old pearling lugger. In its heyday up to 400 people luggers lined the shores of Roebuck Bay.

From Western Australia

This is Streeters Jetty where the pearling luggers used to come to shore through the mangroves. When I was in Broome 25 years ago the luggers were still coming into this jetty. However times and boats, and the pearling industry has changed so I was dissapointed to see that the luggers don't come to this jetty now. However you can take a tour out to one of the pearl farms in the unpolluted water near Broome.

From Western Australia

Divers in the late 19th and early 20th centuries used cumbersome full diver suits, copper helmets and lead weighted boots to dive in much much deeper waters. It was dangerous work and many divers died during this period of history, and were never to return to their homelands. You can see some of their last resting places in the Japanese cemetery in Broome. It is a quite contemplative place to walk through.

From Western Australia

Here is Broome jetty. Lots of people come here to fish. The height of the jetty is to accommodate the height of the tides.

From Western Australia

This is the Sun Theatre - which may be the world' oldest picture garden - ie outside picture theatre. Constructed at the turn of the century on a site owned by the Yamsaki family, the double-fronted tin structures was initially an Asian emporium. In 1913, Master Pearler Ted Hunter purchased the building and commissioned architect Claude Hawkes, to design and construct a picture theatre that would seat up to 500 people. Sun Pictures officially opened on December 9th 1916 with a silent movie, English Racing Drama ‘Kissing Cup’ with supporting ‘Bachelor Brown’ Comic. The Theatre has had numerous owners, and in 1995 the building is placed on the State Register of Heritage Places. You can still see movies at the Sun Theatre today.

From Western Australia

And another photo of Cable Beach.........

From Western Australia

Week 32/52-Part 2 - Skull Springs, Nullagine -Rest awhile by a river under the trees

Hi everyone and welcome to Part 2 of Week 32 of my 52 week Tour Downunder Western Australia. I am posting Part 2 because I have more photos to bring you from the Carawine/Nullagine area.

From our last stop Carawine Gorge (Week 32 Part 1) we travel further south to Skull Springs - you can't miss the the turnoff as it is appropriately signposted by a camel’s skull. The springs are located in the bed of the Davis River and despite its name it is a beautiful and idyllic place to camp and spend a few days. Gigantic silver cajuput trees shade the numerous trickling watercourses that crisscross the river bed.

This is one of my favourite photos....

From Western Australia

Explorer Nat Cooke named Skull Springs when he found an Aboriginal skull here in 1886. It is said that the papery bark of the cajuput trees was used by Aborigines to construct huts and make baskets.

The river is protected from the wind by high ridges, but the force of cyclonic flooding is illustrated by the debris caught high in the tree branches and huge trees that had been uprooted. Flooding can happen without warning, so be careful where you camp.

From Western Australia

We spent a lovely couple of restful days wandering up and down the river bed. Skull Springs is also a great place to try fishing with a small flick rod (especially if you have children) in the numerous streams and sheltered pools crisscrossing the river bed. We caught a few Spangled Perch which were very tasty, just filleted, floured and pan fried on the gas camping stove.

Wearing reef boots certainly made it easier to wade through the streams crisscrossing the river bed – no need to bother about water getting into your shoes or where to cross – just wade over. However by the end of the day the stony river bed got a bit hard on the feet!

From Western Australia

From Western Australia

31kms further east is Running Waters where the water is crystal clear and warm enough for a swim to rinse off the dust.

Here are a few more photos from Skull Springs.

From Western Australia

Our camp by the edge of a small stream at Skull Springs.

From Western Australia

All to soon it was time to leave - It was so beautiful I wanted to stay longer along the banks of the river under the trees, in the tranquillity away from the troubles of the world....

From Skull Springs we travelled west along Skull Springs Road to Nullagine. This is an attractive drive however there are many creek and river crossings that require low range 4WD and good ground clearance - a couple of times we had to wade across first to check the water depth. It took us three hours to drive the

From Western Australia

Remains at the 20 Mile Sandy Creek State Battery on the Nullagine Road.

Nullagine was once part of the 1880’s Pilbara gold rush and now is popular with prospectors who fossick amongst the old abandoned mines and tailings. The area is rich in all kinds of minerals and in 1902 was the site of Australia’s first diamond discovery.

From Western Australia

I hope you have enjoyed these photos as much as I have enjoyed bringing one of my favourite camping spots, Skull Springs, to you.

Week 32/52 - Carawine Gorge - camping with the Rainbow Bee-Eater

Welcome to Week 32 of my 52 week Tour Downunder Western Australia - in which I aim to bring you stories and images from around the beautiful State I live in - Western Australia. I have done a lot of travel all across my State and I wanted to share some of the sights with you. Some of the photos have been taken in the last 2 or 3 years and some are new this year as I travelled to places new to me.
In week 31 we visited the hottest place in Australia - Marble Bar in the northern Pilbara - and now we will drive inland approximately 173 kilometres east to Carawine Gorge on the Oakover River and the Great Sandy Desert. I hope you have your camping gear with you!

From Marble Bar we travel east along the Ripon Hills Road through rolling hills covered in Spinifex, yellow Wattle and purple Mulla Mulla, turn south at the Telfer turnoff, then off the bitumen onto the unsealed gravel road to Carawine Gorge.

In the photo below we are heading towards the hill line where we can see in the distance the trees marking the Oakover River and the line of dramatic red brown cliffs which is Carawine Gorge.

From Life Images by Jill

Many of the river gums at the gorge were unfortunately destroyed by floodwaters following Cyclone Faye in 2004, - much of the riverbank is now bare red rock - amazing to see the force of a cyclone uprooting huge trees - however there are still a few good campsites at the water’s edge amongst the remaining trees. See below our camp for the night. We have built a fire near the waters edge and I have the camp oven on the fire cooking dinner. My husband found an old piece of corrugated iron to put on the wind side of the fire. You can see him in this photo.

From Life Images by Jill

The river upstream looks so inviting we wished we had a canoe so we could explore. Made a note to bring a canoe on our next trip north.

From Life Images by Jill

In the afternoon my husband Rod and son Mark went fishing, while I took my camera and tried to photograph the Rainbow Bee-Eater. The splash of bright colour with was the Bee-Eater was flashing across the water and landing on the dry branch of a tree near where I sat on a fallen log by the bank of the river. The warm glow from the late afternoon sun lit his wings and a light breeze ruffled his neck and chest feathers. Suddenly he swept back over the river, returning just as quickly to the branch with an insect in his mouth.

Wishing for a bigger zoom so I could get a better capture of the Rainbow Bee-Eater...

From Life Images by Jill

And later we cooked damper and toasted marshmallows over the campfire under the full moon and a blanket of stars.

Thankyou for looking everyone. I look forward to hearing from you, and I hope to bring you a few more photos tomorrow night from Carawine Gorge. In the meantime I hope you enjoy your camp tonight under the gum trees with the Rainbow Bee-Eater. Got to go and cook some more marshmallows - goodnight! I will see you in the morning.

I took this one in the early morning - one of the views from our camp.

From Western Australia

We also drove out to the edge of the Great Sandy Desert where the red sand hills start rolling away into the distance - however the sand hills aren't bare as you can see here - they are covered in a huge variety of plant life. Seeing the desert for the first time highlighted to me the vision and courage of our early explorers and settlers who came out here with whatever their horse could carry and a dream to guide them.

From Western Australia

This is the abandoned Ragged Hills Gold Mine.

From Western Australia

And this is Mulla Mulla - a very common plant in the Pilbara. Whenever we travel north I always look out for the Mulla Mulla because it signals to me that we have entered the Pilbara which is an region I really love.

From Wildflowers

I hope you have enjoyed these photos. Next week we will head south from Carawine to beautiful river banks of Skull Springs and the gold mining town of Nullagine.
I hope you will join me then!