Week 48/52- The Pinnacles - tramping through Kwongan & rocks

Hi everyone, and welcome to Week 48 of our 52 week Tour Downunder Western Australia. This week we continue steadily southwards and enter the Kwongan area of the coastal sand plains.

Kwongan is an aboriginal name for low dense heath and scrublands of eye level height allowing you to view over the landscape.

Located in the richly bio-diverse Kwongan scrublands 300kms north of Perth is Western Flora Caravan and Tourist Park. The 160 acre nature based park is well known for a spectacular range of wildflowers during the wildflower season (July to January) making the Park a wildflower lover’s paradise.

From Western Australia

Included in the tariff at Western Flora is a daily guided wildflower discovery walk at 4.30pm with owner and internationally recognized wildflower expert Allan Tinker. The walk is fascinating for wildflower enthusiasts and Allan will help you to see nature with new understanding, including the combined roll of flowers, insects and animals in pollination.

Allan has the distinction of having had a visit from Sir David Attenborough and has had two species of wildflower named after him, the Diuris tinkeri donkey orchid and the Melaleuca tinkeri.

Around 2,000 species of plants live within a 40 kilometre radius of the park, and walks along the walk trails within the 65 hectare Park accompanied by the resident kangaroos will allow visitors to see and photograph some of them.



Allan Tinker was fascinating to listen too - so knowledgeable about the plants. As well as the walking tour, he also does slide shows, and 4WD day tours. At Western Flora everyone is interested in the same thing - the wildflowers - so you meet lots of like minded people.

Here is a mother kangaroo (doe) and her baby (joey) near our camp.

From Western Australia

and some wilflowers. Unfortunately I haven't been able to identify this one, but I think it might be one of the Dryandra family - but not opened yet.

From Wildflowers

The Tinsel Lily

From Wildflowers

And so our tour continues....as we visit Lesueur National Park...

The 26,987 hectare Lesueur National Park is located only 50km south of Western Flora. Lesueur has been a mecca for botanists since 1850. As one of the richest sites for plant species in the world it is a biodiversity hotspot, and has the greatest concentration of plant species in WA. 200 of its 900 species have special conservation significance. 124 bird species also rely on the area’s flora, including the endangered Carnaby’s Cockatoo.

Mount Lesueur (known to the aborigines as Koomba Chiler) was named after French artist Charles Alexandre Lesueur who sailed up the coast on board the Naturaliste in 1801.

From Western Australia

A 19km surfaced tourist road winds through the Park with picnic areas and numerous pullovers where you can stop and get out to view the wildflowers. There are also several walk trails with interpretive panels telling you about geology and plant species, ranging from a 400 metre wheelchair accessible path to the 4km Lesueur summit trail which has views of the coast.

This is a Starflower...

From Wildflowers

Blue Leschenaultia....

From Wildflowers

Fringed Bell....

From Wildflowers

  And now we move on further south to the Pinnacles in the Nambung National Park.

Regarded as one of Australia's most unique landscapes, these limestone spiers reach several metres tall. It's believed the Pinnacles were created millions of years ago as seashells were broken down into sand and then eroded by water and wind.

From Western Australia

I must honesty admit these are not my best shots - unfortunately we were short of time and we were there at totally the wrong time of day - midday! But sometimes you can't always be where you want to during the magic hour! I hope to go back again during a wildflower run in 2011, and hopefully I will make a better go of it then at a better time of day! They do lots of day tourist trips from Perth to the Pinnacles, and I also know they run photography work-shops up there.

From Western Australia

  Thanks everyone for looking and joining the tour. Only a few weeks to go!

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Week 47/52 - Geraldton & Northhampton - driving and history

Hi everyone, and welcome to Week 47 of our 52 week tour DownUnder Western Australia. This week we leave Shark Bay and head on down south through Carnarvon, past Kalbarri to Geraldton. Unfortunately these are just travelling days, and time was not on our side, so the coastal town of Carnarvon with its banana plantations, and the seaside holiday town of Kalbarri with its beaches, fishing, and inland gorge country we will have to visit another time.

Just north of Geraldton we pass through the small town of Northampton - this is another one of Monsignor Hawes churches built from local stone. You may remember the architect priest Monsignor Hawes from our tour through the midwest in Week 25 and 26.

From Western Australia

And this is another one of Monsignor Hawes churches - the impressive St Francis Xavier Cathedral in Geraldton. Considered to be one of the most important of his churches, Monsignor Hawes drew the plans in Rome in 1914, and started work on the church in 1916., although not completed until 1938.

From Western Australia

Below you see the impressive memorial to the Australian ship, HMAS Sydney which sunk off the coast during WW2 during a battle in November 1941 - no one survived and no bodies were recovered. The memorial is built high on a hill over looking Geraldton and the Indian Ocean. The dome comprises 645 seagulls representing the people who died when the ship sunk. The sculpture of the lady represents loved ones looking out to sea and waiting in vain for their men to return. The wreck of the Sydney was not found until 2008.

From Western Australia

 It is an amazing experience to stand beneath the seagulls, and to read the names on the wall, and to feel their spirits and the pain of their loved ones. It is a quiet place for reflection.

Here is some words from the wall - they really struck me - as under the sea where they rest there is eternal silence -

From Western Australia

 Another from the memorial in Geraldton. The pillar in the background represents the bow of the ship.

From Western Australia

The area just south of Geraldton, near Greenough, is characterised by River Gums which have grown leaning over from the constant strong southerly winds that buffet the region.

From Western Australia

A bit blurry unfortunately as it is a drive along shot - crossing the Gascoyne River in Carnarvon. The river bed is dry for part of the year, and then floods when the rain comes.

From Western Australia

There are often very long distances between towns in Western Australia - especially in the northern two thirds. So roadhouses become a focal point for stops. Here is a photo of one of the typical looking roadhouses out here. This one is at Nanutarra.

From Western Australia

Sometimes when you have been driving for a long time, the passenger resorts to macro photography within the vehicle...........

From Western Australia

Week 46/52 - Shark Bay & Moneky Mia - wading with dolphins

Hi everyone, and welcome to Week 46 of our 52 week Tour Downunder Western Australia.

This week we continue south from Coral Bay and arrive at Denham at Shark Bay on the Peron Peninsula. Home of the dolphins that come to the beach at Monkey Mia (I'll show them to you a little later), there is also lots of other things to see and do at Shark Bay. With the current push in eco-tourism, Shark Bay offers a great deal for both off-roaders and those with conventional vehicles.

On the way into Denham, we'll stop at Hamelin Pool Marine Nature Reserve where stromatolites, the oldest life form on earth, grow in the warm shallow water. Stromatolites are living layered limestone rock built by single celled cyanobacteria (blue green bacteria) (similar to the first forms of life on earth) which trap and bind sediments. Marine stromatolites only exist in Hamelin Pool and the Bahamas. The existence of the stromatolites contribute to Shark Bay's World Heritage Listing.

From Western Australia

 We'll also visit Shell Beach, where tiny Cardiid cockleshells flourish in huge numbers creating a beach of shells built up over 4000 years.

From Western Australia

From Western Australia

And we'll spend a lazy afternoon on the beach front in Denham - the only township on the Peron Peninsular. Denham has a laid back friendly atmosphere.

From Western Australia

Here we are at Cape Peron at the northern tip of the Francois Peron National Park, located on the Peron Peninsula, which makes up the mainland of Shark Bay.

Named after a French naturalist, who visited Shark Bay with the Geograph expedition in 1801 and 1803, the Peron Peninsular was a sheep station between the 1880’s and 1990, and supported a pearling camp in the 1800’s. Bought by the WA State Government in 1990, the National Park is one of only 16 natural World Heritage sites around the world that meet all four criteria for World Heritage listing.

The contrast of the red bluff, the white beach sand and the blue of the ocean and sky is amazing.

From Western Australia

The first thing on the list of most visitors to Shark Bay is Monkey Mia to see the world famous bottle nose dolphins. The Reserve is managed by the WA Dept of Environment and Conservation to ensure the dolphins continue to live in their natural environment and at the same time interact with humans.

There are strict guidelines controlling visitors’ interaction with the dolphins. Dolphin feeding, three times a day between 8am and 1pm, is carefully controlled and supervised in the special interaction area on the beach front near the jetty. The early morning feedings provide the best chance to see the dolphins. By the number of languages we heard spoken, it was obvious that Monkey Mia is an international destination for overseas tourists.

From Western Australia

The dolphins come right into the shore and lay on their sides to look up at you with a grin. Although you are discouraged from touching them, the experience is one you will never forget. When we first came to Monkey Mia years ago, you were able to camp on the beach. Any time of day you walked into the water the dolphins would come swimming up to you. It was a beautiful experience.

From Western Australia

Another beautiful Western Australian sunset over the Indian Ocean....

From Western Australia

Dolphin with sunshine sparkles..........

From Western Australia

Another Monkey Mia resident..........

From Western Australia

The Shark Bay Tarmara Wild Rose which we saw near Shell Beach

From Western Australia

And another glorious sunset...........this is one of my favourite photos..........

From Life Images by Jill

This is at Eagle Bluff on the way into Denham. Shark Bay has the biggest seagrass meadows in the world - also contributing to their World Heritage Listing. An endangered species, the Dugong, feeds on the seagrass meadows. There is a boardwalk where you can look out over the ocean from the bluff.

From Western Australia

Here is something else you sometimes see when tall trees are scarce.....a birds nest on a power pole.....this one was on the road into Hamelin Bay.

From Western Australia

Thanks for looking! Next week we continue south. I hope you have enjoyed these photos - I always enjoy hearing from you.

Week 45/52- Coral Bay - I'd like to be beside the sea side....

Hi everyone and welcome to Week 45 of our 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia. This week we travel south of Exmouth to Coral Bay.

Western Australia's Coral Coast and the Ningaloo Marine Park can be easily explored by staying at Exmouth at the top of North West Cape, or its smaller neighbour Coral Bay, 155 kilometres south. Both towns are geared towards tourism, but Coral Bay exudes a more casual relaxed holiday feel.

Most of Coral Bay’s small population is directly involved in catering for the hundreds of tourists who go there every year to catch the winter sun, experience the reef and relax on the beach which is only a stones throw from the front door of your caravan or holiday cottage.

From Western Australia

Any time of day you will find people sitting on the beach, swimming, or snorkelling on the reef that starts only a few metres from the shore. The town beach is a favourite for families as it provides safe swimming for children and fish can be seen swimming in shallow water near the shore line. It also attracts many “grey nomads” judging by the number of retirees you see on the beach.

From Western Australia

Dive tours are conducted daily from Exmouth and Coral Bay, but you can also experience the coral gardens of the reef by taking a tour in a glass bottom or submariner boat. For non divers, these tours and their informative guides bring you in close contact with the underwater world. It is also great for children, who love seeing the fish through the glass.

From Western Australia

You only need to walk into the water and swim a short distance to the reef for a magical snorkelling experience. The water is so warm you can easily spend an hour or two snorkelling and watching the changing kaleidoscope of life. There are many locations along the Ningaloo Reef where you can do this, and a 4WD will help you access them, however it is wise to seek local information regarding the safest locations and to be aware of strong currents.

From Western Australia

Here are another couple of pics.

some more coral....

From Western Australia

my grandson chasing seagulls. That's the glass bottom boat you can see moored.

From Western Australia

Some coastal wildflowers - this is one of the Heliotrope family.

From Wildflowers

The sunsets at Exmouth and Coral Bay are spectacular. We set up our deck chairs above the cliff at Monks Head at Coral Bay and enjoyed our wine and cheese while we watched a sunset of incredible colours ranging from gold to purple that spread across the whole sky. No city dweller will experience a sunset like this and it will surely be just one of the many highlights of your trip to the Coral Coast.

Isn't the sky glorious? pitty there wasn't a silhouette of a sailing boat to complete the picture.

From Western Australia

thankyou all again for looking. I look forward to hearing from you.

Week 44/52- Ningaloo & North West Cape -reefs, beaches & canyons

Hi everyone and welcome to week 44 of our 52 week Tour Downunder Western Australia. Well we have finished in the north and it is time to head back down south along the coast. We are going to be on the road for a couple of days before we reach our next destination -
- Exmouth, Cape Range National Park and Ningaloo Reef.

Ningaloo Reef, is located offshore from the Cape Range National Park at North West Cape, halfway along the Western Australian coast. You can snorkel just off the shore and experience the wonderful under-water world of the reef. So time to relax with a bit of down time....

From Western Australia

The Reef which stretches 260 kilometres along the coast and covers 5,000 square kilometres, is the jewel of Western Australia’s Coral Coast. It is one of the largest fringing coral reefs in the world, home to 250 species of coral and 500 species of fish and a prime conservation and sanctuary area as well as one of Australia’s great nature based tourism locations.

It is also one of the few places where you can swim with the world’s biggest fish, the Whale Shark which visits Ningaloo Reef from late March until July each year. Swimming with the whale sharks is a relatively new experience and Ningaloo leads the way in whale shark eco-tourism.

Unfortunately, I am a shore based snorkeller with very limited experience - so I cannot show you photos of swimming with the whale sharks. And I also didn't have an underwater camera.....sorry..... maybe next time.

On the RHS of this photo you can see one of the beach front campsites in the Cape Range National Park. The Park has 12 designated coastal camping areas and access to a number of excellent snorkelling sites in crystal clear water which can be waded to from the shore. If you don’t mind limited facilities, the camp sites offer a great way to spend a few lazy days.

From Western Australia

Game fishing, whale tours, snorkel and dive tours, and the prawning industry are the main industries in Exmouth. Here is a photo from the boat harbour - with leisure boats in the foreground and prawn trawlers in the background.

With the continental shelf only kilometres offshore, Exmouth and Coral Bay are fishing meccas, and there are plenty of opportunities for land based and boat fishing, but people must be aware of the Marine Park Sanctuary Zones. There are over 30 game fish species, and you can take advantage of Western Australia’s premier game fishing destination by joining a fishing charter.

From Western Australia

And this is Charles Knife Canyon in the Cape Range National Park. There are views out over the Cape to the reef and the ocean beyond, and many walk trails.

Charles Knife Gorge and Shothole Canyon are a short drive south of Exmouth. The road through Shothole travels through the dry creek bed offering a close look at the colourful rock layers of the canyon walls, whilst a drive along the ridge of Charles Knife Gorge to Thomas Carter Lookout produces sweeping views of the Gorge and Exmouth Gulf. Around each corner the view is more spectacular than the last, and pull off areas allow you to stop and enjoy the views.

From Western Australia

Here is Pebble Beach on the shore of Exmouth Gulf. I know pebble beaches are quite common in Europe, but in Australia it is an unusual phenomenon. This beach is the "Mowbowra Conglomerate". The pebbles have been formed by streams running out of Cape Range and the action of the sea waves along the shoreline.

From Western Australia

Here we see a tour boat going up Yardie Creek in the Cape Range National Park. The one hour cruise along Yardi Creek is a leisurely way to view the multicoloured cliffs of the Gorge and its wildlife including Osprey and Rock Wallabies or you can explore it from above along the walk trail.

From Western Australia

Vlamingh Head Lighthouse was built in 1912 on the tip of North West Cape. It is a great place to watch the sunset or to spot Humpback Whales during their annual migration June to November. At the lighthouse you can see the remains of a WW11 Aircraft Warning Radar. From the Cape you can also just see the fires from the natural gas platforms on the edge of the horizon.

From Western Australia

And one last swim before we go back to camp.....

From Western Australia

We can't have a tour without wildflowers - this is one of the Native Hibiscus family -

From Wildflowers

Another photo of the Ningaloo Reef coastline.... just step into the water here and you are in a underwater wonderland of fish and coral.

From Western Australia

A closeup view of the lighthouse.....

From Western Australia

and a closer view of the prawn trawlers. Buying a feed of fresh cooked prawns at Exmouth is a must do - a bit like buying fish and chips. You eat them straight from the wrapping with no additions - simply delicious.

From Western Australia

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