Week 18/52 - Western Australia's wheatbelt - the golden grain

Welcome to Week 18 of our 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia. This week we move north from Mount Barker and the Stirling Ranges and enter the wheat belt.

The wheatbelt is a huge area of land extending north of Geraldton on the west coast to Esperance on the south coast and covering a great part of the south west of Western Australia. This is the land where farming predominately features around wheat and sheep.

Farming practices have changed a great deal from the early years of farming, and a drive through the wheatbelt reveals the history and pioneering spirit of the country and many treasurers for visitors and photographers. We will travel past paddocks of ripening heads of wheat and golden canola, along roads lined with salmon gums, mallee, sandalwood and quondong trees, visit quiet country churches and railway sidings, climb granite outcrops with stunning views, and see massive headers harvesting the wheat.

First stop is Arthur River - this is an old inn on the side of the road - where the Cobb & Co coaches used to stop over on their way south. I love photographing these old buildings. This one is built from local stone with wooden shingles on the roof.

From Life Images by Jill

Then it is on to Narrogin, which is bigger than the average wheatbelt town being an important road and rail junction. First settled in the 1860’s by pastoralists, the key to the development of Narrogin was the arrival of the Great Southern Railway in 1889.

For those interested in heritage there are two heritage trails. The Old Courthouse Museum building was built in 1894 as a school, converted into a courthouse in 1905, became a bank between 1924-1945, resumed its status as a courthouse in 1970, and has been a museum since 1976 and contains a display of local memorabilia.

This is the Town Hall built in 1907 - it displays a sense of solidity and confidence in the town’s future and thriving rural community.

From Life Images by Jill

22 kilometres north-west of Narrogin brings us to the 28,000 hectare Dryandra Woodland the largest remaining woodland area in the Wheatbelt. Dryandra offers visitors an excellent opportunity to observe a vast array of animals in their native environment at the Barna Mia Sanctuary, numerous picnic areas and walk trails to enjoy by foot, bicycle or horseback ranging in length from one to 27 kilometres, through picturesque open woodland ablaze with wildflowers in spring. You can camp at the Congelin Camp Ground or stay in self contained restored woodcutters’ cottages at the Lions Dryandra Woodland Village.

The trees are quite different in the wheatbelt to what you have seen in the South West corner. The land is dryer here so the plants have changed too. Here is a photo taken along the track through Dryandra.

From Life Images by Jill

Centre for the area’s conservation and eco tourism, Dryandra is unique in its support of a large number of animal species in comparison to the rest of the Wheatbelt. The WA Department of Conservation and Land Management’s “Return to Dryandra Project” involves re-introduction of species that were originally found in the area but have since disappeared, including the Bilby and various wallaby species.

Here is a photo of the Western Grey Kangaroo with her joey in her pouch - We saw a number of these kangaroos when we were walking along one of the walk trails in Dryandra.

From Life Images by Jill

The kangaroos actually let us get quite close if you walk up quietly and slowly, but keep your distance - say about 50 metres. I looked at the info on the kangaroo photo and I saw I had the camera at 51mm - so pretty close! I think in Dryandra the kangaroos are very used to people walking along the walk trails so they don't jump away as soon as they see you.

Here are another couple of members of our wildlife that I got really close to in Dryandra.

This is the Bobtail goanna - so called because he has a stubby tail. Come too close and he will hiss at you and stick out his tongue which this one did when he had had enough of me taking photos!

From Life Images by Jill

This is an Echidna. He lives on ants which he licks up with his tongue through his long snout. You can see it just poking out there in the front of him. They roll up into a ball when frightened.

From Life Images by Jill

And of course a tour wouldn't be complete without wildflowers - this is the Pincushion Cone Flower -

From Wildflowers

And the Dryandra -

From Wildflowers

Thank for looking everyone. I hope you are enjoying this week's introduction in the wheatbelt. Next week we will continue our tour through the wheatbelt. __________________

Week 17/52 - Climbing in the Stirling Ranges

Welcome to week 17 of our 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia - and thank you for joining me as I take you on a 52 week tour around my beautiful state - Western Australia.

This week we drive north from your last stopover, Albany to Mt Barker, the Porongurup Ranges, and Stirling Ranges - I hope you are ready for an early morning start and have your climbing boots on because we are going to climb the Stirling Ranges highest peak - Bluff Knoll.

The towering peaks of the Stirling Ranges rise dramatically from the surrounding coastal farmland, it is easy to see why the local Noongar Aboriginal people call the Ranges, koi kyenunu-ruff – meaning ‘mist moving around the mountains’.

Here we are driving into the Stirling Ranges.

From Life Images by Jill

Spreading over 64 kilometres, the Park provides some of the best mountain walking in WA and over 1500 plant species. A scenic drive along gravel roads takes you through the Park and well-marked tracks provide plenty for bushwalkers, wildflower and bird enthusiasts to explore.

Here is Bluff Knoll towering over us as we start the climb. The 1095 metre climb to the top of Bluff Knoll rewards you with spectacular 360 degree views from the south coast to the north and across the length of the Ranges. Hope you have a hat and water! and of course your camera!

From Life Images by Jill

A boardwalk around the carpark area enables wheelchair access so that everyone can enjoy the views of the Stirling Ranges.

From Life Images by Jill

Climbing up Bluff Knoll the mist and clouds were swirling around us. In winter it occasionally snows on top of Bluff Knoll - very briefly - you have to be at the top to see it as it snows before it melts. It is the only place in Western Australia to receive snow. That is the walking/climbing track you can see snaking away below us and then near the top of the picture you can see the road.

From Life Images by Jill

Another favourite climb is the 1052 metre Toolbrunup Peak, often regarded as the best in the Park. Brochures are available outlining the climbs and the degree of difficulty, and recommend carrying water, being prepared for sudden weather changes, reading the track information signs, and taking note of the time durations for the climbs. I wouldn’t suggest climbing the mountains during mid summer as summer temperatures can be very hot.


Below is a photo from the top of Bluff Knoll - I wish I could show you a better view. But the last time I climbed to the top when this photo was taken we were up in the clouds - still I think the mist evokes a sense of mystery....it reminds me a bit of "Wuthering Heights" or is it something from "Lord of the Rings"?

I have climbed Bluff Knoll right to the top twice. The first time when I was much younger. The last time my knees definitely didn't like the climb down. So that may be it. It is one of Western Australia's premier places for mountain climbing. I have also climbed Toolbrunup Peak.

There are lots of walk tracks and the wildflowers are magnificent. It can get very cold and the cloud cover can come in quickly making it difficult to see the track and they suggest starting early in the morning if you are going to climb. The view is certainly worth it. There is also a camping ground for people who want to stay a few days and climb the various peaks.

From Life Images by Jill

Back down on ground level here we are walking along a walk trail in the Porogorup Ranges just south of the Stirling Ranges. The Porongurups offers shaded picnic areas, bushwalks through Karri, Redgum and Jarrah forests on the upper slopes and wineries on the lower slopes, offering something for both casual strollers up to experienced rock climbers. August to October is the wildflower season and during October Mount Barker holds their Wildflower Festival.

From Life Images by Jill

The town of Mt Barker is the centre of the rich agricultural Plantagenet region. Farming began here 1835, an Inn was built in 1871 and by 1880 Mt Barker had become a stopping point for the Cobb & Co coaches between Albany and Perth.

For a historical insight, visit the Tourist Bureau located at the Railway Station, and the Police Station Museum and Historic Precinct. A 30 kilometre heritage drive traces the development of the district. Just out of Mt Barker visit St Werburgh’s Chapel built in 1872 by George Egerton-Warbuton from gravel, straw and clay dug nearby and shovelled into a frame to make the walls. When dry the frame was removed and the windows cut out with a crosscut saw. Set on a hill overlooking farmland and still in use today, the candlelit lit interior exudes a simple charm. The wrought iron ornamental chancel screen and altar rails were forged on the property. The church is on private property, so please remember to shut the gate!

This is St Werburgh's Chapel -

From Life Images by Jill

Just north of Mt Barker is Kojonup. This replica wool wagon piled with bales of wool commemorates the first settlers and the vital part the wool industry played in the history of the Kojonup district. These huge wagons were pulled by teams of horses. The brands on the wool bales are the various properties that raised sheep for wool.

Also in Kojonup you can visit the Military Barracks - Reminiscent of a Scottish highland cottage, the Barricks were established in 1845 to offer protection to travellers and to keep the route open between Albany and the Swan River Settlement (Perth). At Elverd Cottage is a collection of farming implements and machinery.

From Life Images by Jill

Week 16/52 - Albany, Jewell of the South Coast

Welcome to week 16 of our 52 week tour of Western Australia. Here we are in Albany, 54 kilometres east of Denmark - our last destination.

In 1826, 38 years after the First Fleet landed at Port Jackson, French mariner and explorer Dumont D’Urville describing the future site of Albany on Western Australia’s south coast wrote, “…it would be difficult to find a more favourable place to establish a colony…”. WA did not become a French colony, the British established WA’s first European settlement at Albany that same year, but 180 years later, visitors agree with D’Urville that this region has a rich variety of attractions.

Towering forests and exquisite wildflowers, national parks and ancient ranges, spectacular rugged coastlines and white sandy beaches, water sports and whale-watching, scenic drives and walk trails, museums and heritage buildings, fine arts and crafts, award winning wineries and restaurants. Whether you’re camping or travelling Five Star, all of this and more is available within the Albany region and along the Southern Ocean coastline, offering something for everyone.

We had a mixture of weather when we visited Albany - raining and cold one minute and brilliant sunshine the next - so I have a mixed bag of photos for you.

This is the view across Princess Royal Harbour to Albany, nestled at the base of Mount Clarence and Mount Melville

From Life Images by Jill

Here we are on the Quaranup Point, and the small entrance into the harbour. On this point near where we are standing Captain George Vancouver of the Royal British Navy claimed Western Australia for the Britain in 29 September 1791. On the opposite side are some old stone buildings, and away in the distance the Stirling Ranges - next weeks destination.

From Life Images by Jill

This is Strawberry Hill farm - The wattle and daub cottages at Strawberry Hill Farm built in 1831 and Patrick Taylor Cottage built in 1832 are two of the oldest buildings in Albany.

From Life Images by Jill

And here is the Natural Bridge - on the southern side of the Harbour - where you can experience the awesome power of the Southern Ocean crashing on the rock faces of The Gap, Natural Bridge and The Blowholes in the Torndirrup National Park. Awesome on the rouch day with the waves crashing up.

From Life Images by Jill

 
Another one of Albany's beautiful old buildings - the Rectory at St Johns Church...

From Life Images by Jill

Popular swimming beach - Middleton Beach...you can walk here from city centre along a walk trail with views of the harbour....

From Life Images by Jill

Across this little bay you can see our accommodation - the old Quarantine Station - it has magnificent views over the harbour to the town....There is a walk trail to Possession Point.

From Life Images by Jill

A beach along the walk trail.....

From Life Images by Jill

Week 15/52 - Denmark - Where the forest meets the sea

Well, here we are Week 15 of our 52 week tour around Western Australia.

So here we are in Denmark - where the forest meets the sea - Situated 66 kilometres east of our last destination, Walpole on Western Australia’s south coast, Denmark is attractively located on the banks of the Denmark River which flows into Wilson Inlet and then into the Southern Ocean.

In this photo we are looking from Ocean Beach across Wilson Inlet to Denmark.

From Life Images by Jill

Much of Denmark's history is based around it's forests and the timer industry. Walking through the beautiful Harewood Forest along the banks of the Scotsdale Brook near Denmark, it is difficult to imagine its past. The Karri trees tower straight and tall above you, forest flowers bloom in profusion and the sound of bird song fills the air. It is a peaceful world. The trickling brook and picnic tables invite you to linger and spend time enjoying the forest.

From Life Images by Jill

Interpretive signage along the walk tells us that the Harewood Forest Conservation Area is a pocket of forest that has regenerated after being clear felled by hand with axes and cross cut saws as part of a 20,000 acre timber lease acquisition by Millar’s Timber and Trading Company in 1895. At its peak, two trainloads of sawn Karri timber per day were sent to Albany for export all over the world. Karri blocks were used to pave streets in London. After 10 years of intense logging all the usable timber was used. The mill closed in 1905 and Denmark was only saved from demolition by the petitioning of locals.

During the 1920’s Western Australia offered free land to settlers from the United Kingdom under the group settlement scheme. Fifteen settlements were set up in the area, one of them in the Harewood area. However many of the immigrants had no background in farming or living in primitive conditions and by 1930 70% of the settlers had left the Group Settlements. For those who remained the life was tough.

That history is in the past and Denmark is now a thriving, diverse community with a friendly, relaxed feel, which attracts visitors to its vineyard covered hillsides, towering wilderness forests, spectacular coastline, pristine beaches, scenic drives and walk trails which showcase the natural beauty of Denmark.

This photo is along Scotsdale Road - Karri Trees line the road...

From Life Images by Jill

Denmark’s mild climate makes it the perfect place to relax and take time out. Canoe down the Denmark River, relax in the calm waters of Greens Pool, explore a heritage trail, take the Mt Shadforth Scenic Drive or climb Mt Lindesay for magnificent views across farmland to the ocean, visit craft and art galleries and the growing number of wineries, enjoy a platter of fresh local produce, spend the afternoon fishing, or just lay under the trees on the river bank, the choice is all yours.

And a favourite of mine - .morning in Denmark amongst the paperbark trees by Wilson's Inlet.

From Life Images by Jill

The Denmark River - the forest comes right down to the water - it is magical to canoe along -

From Life Images by Jill

My cousins farm at the foot of Mt Lindesay and surrounded by bushland - a place of many wonderful memories for me....

From Life Images by Jill

And of course some wildflowers - this is the Red Flowering Gum....

From Life Images by Jill

And the leaves of the Tassel Flower - as seen in the Harewood Forest....

From Life Images by Jill

Week 14/52 - Western Australia's south coast & rugged coastline

Hi everyone, Here we are in Week 14 of our 52 week tour Downunder Western Australia  -
Tonight I take you east of Walpole along the southern coastline, with views of the Southern Ocean, to Denmark.

There are kilometres of magnificent coastal scenery, rugged headlands, rock pools and secluded beaches, including Conspicuous Cliffs, Williams Beach, Greens Pool, Ocean Beach, Lights Beach, Wilson Head and Wilson Inlet.

The southern coastline is a great place to see dolphins and to watch for southern right and humpback whales during their migration from July till October. There are several viewing platforms and other high vantage points.

Here is the view at Conspicuous Cliffs - I think the people in the foreground will give you an idea of the scale of this scene......

From Life Images by Jill

Here is Lights Beach.......

From Life Images by Jill

Another photo of Lights Beach - this guy is going for a surf....

From Life Images by Jill

At William Bay you can explore Greens Pool, Elephant Rocks, Madfish Bay and Waterfall Rocks, or travel further on to Parry Beach and Boat Harbour. At William Bay we decided to trek into the William Bay Bibbulmun Track hut as we had read there were magnificent coastal views from near the hut. We weren’t disappointed, but as it was the middle of summer we were glad to be able to plunge into Greens Pool to cool off afterwards.

Greens Pool is a safe swimming beach where they conduct swimming lessons during the summer for children from Denmark. When we arrived it was between lessons. Children were climbing onto the rocks near the beach and lying sleek and wet like seals on the rocks before sliding into the crystal clear blue green water. We did the same. The beach was dotted with the colour of umbrellas and beach shelters and there was laughter and a happy family holiday atmosphere.

Here is a photo of Greens Pool - looks inviting doesn't it? ..... There is a Bibbulmun Track hut near here which we walked to on a hot day in January - we were glad to get back to Greens Pool and go for a swim!

From Life Images by Jill